As the saying goes When in Rome, do as the Romans do, so I couldn’t resist updating my knowledge on craft beer bars in Rome when traveling to the Italian capital this November for work. Last time I was in Rome was in 2015 and with a quick search online I spotted some new places in town to have a good beer where locals do. The beer hunt was on!

My plane landed in the afternoon, so I decided to have my all time favorite sandwich at Angrypig Birretta e Porchetta located near the Vatican. The best Porchetta in town, do not miss it!

L’Osteria di Birra del Borgo

Walk 10 min and you will arrive at L’Osteria di Birra del Borgo. Acquired by ABInbev in 2016, Birra del Borgo can no more be considered a real microbrewery, although its founder and now new CEO – Leonardo Di Vincenzo – keeps full decision-making powers according to an interview he gave on Fermento Birra.

The new 300 m2 location marries craft beers, cocktails and gastronomy and definitely hints at the new investment Birra del Borgo recently received. They offer 24 taps of their own locally produced beer plus a smaller selection from guest breweries. Divided in different areas with the brewery, restaurant, lounge, bar and a smaller intimate space for private events, l’Osteria di Birra del Borgo is a perfect spot for individuals, couples and groups alike. The atmosphere is modern, with bright lights and an open kitchen.


Just around the corner you will stumble upon Be.Re, the new project from Manuele Colonna – owner of Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà – and two other partners. From outside, four large windows reveal this industrial looking bar with exposed bricks and where copper and wood dominate. You will find here 24 taps, 6 of which from cask, offering a fine selection of sour and ale beers from Europe. A good addition to Rome’s craft beer scene! For the real aficionados, Be.Re also offers the possibility of buying individual and personalized mugs which are then displayed in sight opposite the counter.


After meeting a couple of Swiss friends and two Americans on a craft beer drinking spree at Be.Re, we continued our journey together at Bir&Fud for some dinner and of course another glass of beer!

Bir&Fud is located in the beautiful neighborhood of Trastevere and presents itself as a narrow brick-vaulted bar with a larger space in the back for dining. With 36 beers on tap they also serve fresh food, with a special attention to their Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizzas. Personally, I tried their parmiggiana di melanzane topped with a pistacchio pesto… just delicious!

Ma che siete venuti a fa’

The last stop of the night was the infamous Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa’. Opened in 2001 in the heart of Trastevere (conveniently located in front of Bir&Fud) Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa’ is a pioneer of Rome’s craft beer scene.

This small bar is usually cramped with people drinking both outside and inside. It gets busy early in the evenings and stays crowded late at night. They serve 16 beers on tap mainly from Italian breweries and a special attention to Belgian (lambic and sour) beers. If you get passed the entrance, you will find some more space in the back and downstairs.

Brasserie 4:20

The next day passed quickly. The Joomla! World Conference was taking place in Rome this year and I was asked to attend the event. We co-sponsored a booth with Aruba, one of the biggest hosting providers in Italy. It was the busiest day of the conference with many attendants from small web agencies and alike.

Before dinner, I escaped for a couple hours to visit Brasserie 4:20 in Porta Portese neighborhood. The atmosphere is more of a modern trendy pub, friendly and relaxed. The decor is really beautiful and cared to detail. You will find bricked arched walls decorated with hanging plants and an impressive bar counter proposing an ample selection of craft beers.

4:20 proposes 25 different types on tap and even more in bottle. They also serve an excellent selection of aged whiskeys. The warm lightning invites you to sit down with some friends and chat. They also have a roof garden style terrace which is heated in winter, a real paradise for smokers and those who love to be outdoors. Prices were lower here than other bars located in the city centre. Even if a bit off the beaten track, this bar is totally worth a visit when exploring Rome’s craft beer scene!

Open Baladin

I couldn’t leave without stopping by Rome’s classic Open Baladin. Luckily on my last day we stopped by for a late night beer with some colleagues. Very centrally located, this bar has a huge selection of craft beers and is very popular amongst locals.

They have 44 beers on tap ranging all styles. Pricing is on the higher end, but quality is always present. The space is nicely designed, with an admirable bottle wall behind the counter. It is important to note that Open Baladin serves strictly beer only.

I finished off the trip with Ghisa, an Imperial Stout from Birricio Lambrate. Deliciously smoked. Salute!

Tess having a beer at Open Baladin in Rome


If you plan to visit Italy, read on about one of it’s best craft beer festival.
Lastly, here is our list of recommended craft beer bars in Rome: